05/23/18 Costco.com Perricone MD Closeout Pricing While Supplies Last

May 23, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

Costco is my Holy Grail of skincare shopping, but full disclosure some people have concerns because it’s gray market. I personally haven’t had any issues with expiration date and authenticity from my orders and their customer service can’t be beat! When a product ends in .97 it means that it’s being priced to sell / transition out of stock. However I’ve seen “last chance” pricing drop even further (I’m looking at you May Coop Activator. I got it for $15 but it dropped even further to $10) so if you’re interested IMO order sooner rather than later.

Perricone MD H2EE Firming Foam Mask $14.97

$50 MSRP listed on the main website. I made a post about this one previously when I first noticed the price drop and since then mine has arrived in the mail. I think of it as a “wash-off” mask and I’ll use it after my weekly glycolic acid 30% peel. It’s an ointment-like texture that turns into a light foam. You have to work fast or it starts foaming up on you! I use maybe 4 pumps per session, the instructions do say “use liberally”. The instructions say leave on for about 10 minutes but I HATE the way it feels as the bubbles subside, it feels incredibly itchy to me. On washing off it leaves a slippery feel on the skin, so beware if you’re one of those people who hate that feeling.

I don’t know that it does much but it does seem to reduce my irritation post-peel. It’s a fun purchase for the price.

Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Bentonite, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Saccharide Isomerate, Disiloxane, Decyl Glucoside, Betaine, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Phosphatidylcholine, Sodium Borohydride, Perfluorohexane, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Perfluorodecalin, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Octyldodecyl PCA, Menthyl PCA, Algin, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Coconut Acid, Sodium Chloride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Isethionate, Butylene Glycol, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol.

Perricone MD Cocoa Moisture Mask, 2 fl oz $24.97

$69 MSRP listed on main website. Did you guys know that cocoa butter has the same comedogenic rating as coconut oil? I was really surprised! Haven’t tried this one but watch out if squalane makes you break out.

Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Isopropyl Myristate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Mannitol, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Cellulose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethyl MEA, Thioctic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tyrosine, Papain, Bromelain, Ethylhexylglycerin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Lecithin, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Maltodextrin, Ceteareth-20, Buteth-3, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Acrylates Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lauryl Glucoside, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Tributyl Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance/Parfum, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Barium Sulfate, Caramel, Silica, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate.

Perricone MD Re:Firm Treatment, 1 fl oz $49.97

$155 MSRP couldn’t find it on their website, strangely but it’s on Sephora. Surprised, but not by the silicone content. (I really should just learn to expect this a lot of high cost products have a lot of silicones in them). I’m pretty curious about this one! But it’s not in my budget this month.

Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactobacillus Ferment, Caprylyl Methicone, Dimethyl MEA, Thioctic Acid, Carnosine, Adenosine, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Decapeptide-4, Oligopeptide-24, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Ginko Biloba Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium PCA, Urea, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediame Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol.

Perricone MD Neuropeptide Facial Conformer, 2 fl oz $199.97

$325 MSRP on main website. Heck no you aren’t going to catch me dead paying this much for a single product. But peptides are expensive and if you can afford it you’d be saving $125 off of MSRP, so don’t let my lack of money sway you from splurging.

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethyl MEA (DMAE), Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Protein Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Tribehenin, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Dimethicone, PEG-8, Phenoxyethanol, Phosphatidylcholine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Triethanolamine, L-Tyrosine, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceramide 2, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sorbic Acid, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Tocotrienols, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 20, Rutin, Tocopherol, Copper Gluconate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Neuropeptide), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Neuropeptide), Parfum (Fragrance), Phaseolus Lunatus (Green Bean) Extract

Review: 2018 Sephora Sun Safety Kit Part 1

April 14, 2018May 6, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

As you all know, sun care is the best thing you can do for your skin so when Sephora’s 2018 Sun Safety Kit was released I was stoked to get a chance to review all 16 products in the line. Unfortunately they were sold out by the time I received my order, but you can still get it on e-bay*.

TBH I’m a little disappointed by how small some of these samples were! Following the guidelines of using 1/4 teaspoon per application (1.25 mL) some of these are only good for about 6 days of use. Quick note about the reviews: skincare is very individual so if an ingredient is getting conflicting responses this is why (for example: silicones like dimehticone are an effective occlusive that is used in many high end moisturizers but it’s also an acne trigger for many).

Part 1 covers the SPF 30 and below Chemical Sunscreens in the kit. Reviews are listed from lowest SPF to highest SPF and from most watery to most creamy. Please check out the recommended reading / watching list at the bottom of the post to learn more about the differences and safety of physical vs chemical sunscreen.

0.24 oz/7 mL Clinique Pep-Start Moisturizer SPF 20 – $29.50 from clinique.com*

First impressions: Untinted, chemical sunscreen. It’s not as “silky” as some other primers I’ve used but it’s probably because it doesn’t contain as many silicones as other primers. In exchange it has a creamy texture that’s easily absorbed into the skin, and contains a bunch of moisturizing ingredients. It looks like micrococcus lysate is a more recent addition to this formulation, and it’s allegedly reverses UV damage.

Best: Fragrance free, doubles as a primer, micrococcus lysate claims to protect from UV damage, moisturizing – contains humectants (glycerin, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate), emollients (cetyl alcohol, tridecyl sterate, squalane, tridecyl trimellitate, tocopheryl acetate, cetyl palmitate, dimethiconol), occlusives (dimethicone), peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmotyle tripeptide-1), probiotics (lactobacillus ferment, micrococcus lysate)

Worst: SPF 20 isn’t enough for sun protection on its own, contains silicone (common acne trigger), ferments probably not safe for fungal acne, squalane is HG for some but acne trigger for others

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0% , Octisalate 5.0% Ingredients: Water\Aqua\Eau , Butyloctyl Salicylate , Glycerin , Polyester-8 , Polysorbate 60 , Dimethicone , Butylene Glycol , Cetyl Alcohol , Sorbitan Stearate , Tridecyl Stearate , Pentylene Glycol , Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul’S Wort) Extract , Laminaria Saccharina Extract , Plankton Extract , Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract , Lactobacillus Ferment , Ergothioneine , Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 , Sea Whip Extract , Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract\Extrait D’Orge , Caffeine , Algae Extract , Squalane , Ethylhexylglycerin , Trehalose , Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 , Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract , Micrococcus Lysate , Tridecyl Trimellitate , Tocopheryl Acetate , Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate , Peg-100 Stearate , Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , Cetyl Palmitate , Sorbitan Palmitate , Sorbitan Olivate , Sodium Benzoate , Ethylene/Va Copolymer , Dimethiconol , Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate , Sodium Hydroxide , Sodium Polyacrylate , Polyethylene , Lecithin , Sodium Hyaluronate , Carbomer , Polysorbate 20 , Disodium Edta , Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate , Bht , Chlorphenesin , Phenoxyethanol

1.01 oz/30 mL AMOREPACIFIC Resort Collection Sun Protection Mist – $75 for 200 mL or $32 for 80 mL

First impressions: Sprays are one of the easiest ways to refresh SPF over makeup. This is a light-as-water application and while it does smell like alcohol on first spritz but it fades to a floral scent. I would use this on makeup days but not on its own, since usually sprays and powders don’t give even enough coverage. The ingredient list is pretty short so this is a pretty straightforward product.

Best: Very light and easy to apply. Feels like water and dries a little slow but you don’t have to rub it in. Minimalistic ingredient list.

Worst: Sprays not suitable for use on their own, takes a little bit of time to absorb. Squalane is Hg for many but acne-trigger for some.

Active Ingredients: HOMOSALATE, OCTOCRYLENE, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE Inactive Ingredients: POLYETHYLENE, ISOPROPYL PALMITATE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, SQUALANE, BUTYLOCTYL SALICYLATE, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX, ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL, PHYLLOSTACHIS BAMBUSOIDES JUICE, PORTULACA OLERACEA EXTRACT, PRUNUS MUME FRUIT EXTRACT, CAMELLIA SINENSIS SEED OIL, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, ALCOHOL, FRAGRANCE

0.17 oz/5 mL Murad Invisiblur™ Perfecting Shield SPF 30 PA+++ – $65 at Murad.com*

First impressions: Untinted, clear chemical sunscreen. This feels so silky on application. It’s not advertised as a primer but it would probably be a good one. I like that it’s PA+++, a lot of western sunscreens don’t list the UVA protection. It has a minty, floral scent that’s not overpowering.

Best: It feels nice on the skin and it applies very sheer and dries completely matte. The product is clear and lives up to its claims of being invisible. High silicone content is known to have a nice texture and fill in the appearance of wrinkles.

Worst: Retinyl palmitate may be photo-sensitizing and may degrade in sunlight (conflicting evidence, but I would still avoid it in a sunscreen), lots of silicones which may be an acne trigger, contains alcohol, not fragrance-free

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone (2.0%), Homosalate (4.0%), Octisalate (4.0%), Octocrylene (2.0%) Inactive Ingredients: Isododecane, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenyl Trimethicone, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil, Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides, C15-23 Alkane, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Cake, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Extract, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, PEG -8 Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Alcohol, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Butylene Glycol, Lentinus Edodes (Shiitake Mushroom) Extract, Mucor Miehei Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Silica, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Solidago Virgaurea (Goldenrod) Extract, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene, Linalool, Fragrance (Parfum)

0.25 oz/7 mL philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Cream SPF 30 – $28 at philosophy.com

First impressions: Has a light, creamy texture and smells fragrance free. It absorbs quickly and matte.

Best: This product feels moisturizing and contains a lot of antiaging ingredients (bifida ferment lysate, retinol).

Worst: Formation contains both octinoxate and avobenzone stabilized with octocrylene, which may mean that the avobenzone could degrade faster than in other formulations.It also contains alpha-hydroxy acids which are moisturizing but make you more sensitive to the sun. Retinol, while it may be anti-aging, can also make you more photosensitive.

Active ingredients: avobenzone (2.7%), octinoxate (6.99%), octocrylene (2%) Inactive ingredients: water, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, carthamus tinctorius (safflower) oleosomes, glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane, butylene glycol, methyl gluceth-20, gluconolactone, polyacrylamide, hydrogenated lecithin, cyclohexasiloxane, cetyl alcohol, bifida ferment lysate, phenoxyethanol, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, c13-14 isoparaffin, polysorbate 80, acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, laureth-7, glycine soja (soybean) oil, fragrance, iris pallida root extract, ruby powder, disodium edta, gluconic acid, alcohol, mica, lecithin, adenosine, cellulose gum, retinol, peg-8, polysorbate 20, bht, chitosan, ethylhexylglycerin, glycolic acid, sorbitan oleate, calcium gluconate, tocopherol, behentrimonium chloride, sodium bicarbonate, ascorbyl palmitate, beta-glucan, potassium phosphate, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, camellia sinensis leaf extract, coffea arabica (coffee) seed extract, pongamia pinnata seed extract, isopropyl alcohol, acetic acid, angelica archangelica root extract, benzoic acid, citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) peel extract, maltodextrin, citric acid, magnesium aluminum silicate, xanthan gum, lactic acid, ascorbic acid, sclerotium gum, bha, sorbic acid, titanium dioxide (ci 77891).

0.5 oz/15 mL Peter Thomas Roth Max Sheer All Day Moisture Defense Lotion SPF 30 – $42 at peterthomasroth.com*

First impressions: Thick an creamy but absorbs into the skin surprisingly quickly. It has a very light stereotypical sunscreen scent. I think this is my favorite one in the list and I would recommend for dry, sensitive skin.

Best: Fragrance free and feels very moisturizing and has a lot of moisturizing ingredients – (allantoin, aloe, butylene glycol, capryllic/capric triglyceride, ceramide 3, cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, glyceryl stearate, phospholipids, propylene glycol) and vitamins (ascorbyl palmitate vitamin C derivative, panthenol vitamin B5, retinyl palmitate vitamin A, tocopheryl acetate vitamin E). This product also has a relatively short ingredients list but there’s plenty of good ingredients.

Worst: Contains both octinoxate and avobenzone stabilized with octocrylene. Retinyl palmitate may be photo-sensitizing and may degrade in sunlight (conflicting evidence, but I would still avoid it in a sunscreen), contains silicones which may be an acne trigger

Active Ingredients: AVOBENZONE 3%, HOMOSALATE 10%, OCTINOXATE 7.5%, OCTISALATE 5%, OCTOCRYLENE 2%, OXYBENZONE 6% Inactive Ingredients: ALLANTOIN, ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE, ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, BENTONITE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, CAPRYLLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, CARBOMER, CERAMIDE 3, CETYL ALCOHOL, DIMETHICONE, GINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACT, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PANTHENOL, PEG-100 STEARATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, PHOSPHOLIPIDS, POTASSIUM SORBATE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, RETINYL PALMITATE, SODIUM BENZOATE, STEARIC ACID, TETRASODIUM EDTA, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, TRIETHANOLAMINE, WATER/AQUA/EAU.

-Bonus- 0.25 oz/7.5 mL First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 – $28 on FAB.com

First impressions: Thick an creamy, has light, natural coverage but absorbs less quickly than the PTR Max Sheer. It’s fragrance free and FAB is the only brand one of my sensitive family members can use.

Best: Tint looks natural on the skin, and contains a lot of moisturizing ingredients (silicones, moisturizing alcohols, vitamin e, glycerin, butylene glycol, colloidal oatmeal, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin) and Licorice Root extract which may help even skintone.

Worst: Contains both octinoxate and avobenzene stabilized with octocrylene. Contains silicones. Citrus oils may be photosensitizing.

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone 3%, Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 7.5%. Inactive ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerin, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Hexyl Laurate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Tribehenin, Limonene, Tetrasodium EDTA, Aminomethyl Propanol, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Allantoin, Sodium Ascorbate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Extract, MAY CONTAIN: CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77492/CI 77499/CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Mica.

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Snail Smoothing & Firming

April 8, 2018April 8, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

Day 5 of the 12 part series covering the 0.2mm Therapy Air line.

Best for: Dry and Acne-prone Skin

Data repeated from previous reviews will be in Italics. This is the first mask in the series I’ve encountered that doesn’t contain drying alcohols.

The 0.2 mm refers to the mask thickness. The mask fit is hands down the best thing about this mask, but the thinness might explain the feelings of dryness once the time is up. ~~Or maybe it’s the alcohol.~~

I have to admit even though there are more irritating ingredients it’s just more comfortable on the face than my other recommended budget sheet mask line Dermal Korea Collagen Essence Mask Sheet.

Across most of the line alcohol is going to be high on the ingredients list and the mask fit is going to be the same. I tend to have a longer forehead for most masks but this one fits me well, the eye holes are a little closer together than most masks.

First Impressions:

This mask has a thin, milky serum that absorbs very quickly and leaves the skin feeling moisturized when it’s dry. The mask has a light herbal scent common to the other masks. This is my favorite mask so far.

Like with others in the series, the mask starts off moist and then the cooling sensation sets in (probably from the eucalyptus).

Ingredients:
water, dipropylene glycol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, methyl propanediol, sorbitan stearate, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, snail secretion filtrate (2,500 PPM), sorbitan sesquiolate, arginine, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, sucrose cocoate, coptis japonica root extract, ginger root extract, camella snensis leaf extract, licorice root extract, adenosine, dehydroacetic acid, dipottasium glycyrrhzate, disodium EDTa, boswella serrata gum, sodium hyaluronate, hydrogenated lechitin, phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, eucalyptus oil, ceramide NP, centella asiatica extract, citrus noblis (Mandarin) orange oil, lavender oil, pnus pallustirs oil, junperus mexcana oil, lemon fruit extract

Smoothening and Firming

What? CosDNA, caprylic/capric triglyceride isn’t a fragrance. Paula’s Choice sums it up very well “Caprylic/capric triglyceride can also function as a thickener, but its chief job is to moisturize and replenish skin.”

But on to the main ingredient, snail! Snail is a cult favorite Korean skincare ingredient that’s commonly recommended for acne-prone skin. A quick search found more studies about the texture and fine line-reduction benefits of snail which is in line with the mask’s flavor text.

Gotta have it now? Cosmetic-love is running a promotion: get the 15-mask set for $8.06 excluding shipping* after an extra 5% off with promocode NEWSETSHOP05. Or get a combo pack for ~$1.00 each on Amazon* usually masksheets.com has good prices but for some reason they carry individual masks in this line above MSRP.

Sources

Liu, Lucy. “Snails and Skin Care-An Uncovered Combination.” JAMA Dermatology, American Medical Association, 1 July 2017, jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/article-abstract/2642949?redirect.

Fabi, S G, et al. “The Effects of Filtrate of the Secretion of the Cryptomphalus Aspersa on Photoaged Skin.” Journal of Drugs in Dermatology : JDD., U.S. National Library of Medicine, Apr. 2013, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23652894.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links denoted by *.

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Pearl Bright Complexion

April 7, 2018April 7, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

Day 4 of the 12 part series covering the 0.2mm Therapy Air line.

Best for: Dry Skin

Data repeated from previous reviews will be in Italics. I’ve been using minimal other skincare while doing these reviews to see if the high alcohol content actually made a difference to my face. Mornings are foam cleanse, moisturizer, sunscreen and evenings are double cleanse, 0.2mm Therapy Air and moisturizer. I just passed out last night with evening skincare at all so maybe that contributed to it but… I thought I was pilling on my nose yesterday but this morning it was noticeable that it was peeling instead (probably from dryness). I think my skin is slowly approaching dehydration again but I’ll continue to ruin my face for science. It also makes me wonder if the humectants in the strawberry mask just weren’t enough to offset the alcohol.

The 0.2 mm refers to the mask thickness. The mask fit is hands down the best thing about this mask, but the thinness might explain the feelings of dryness once the time is up. Or maybe it’s the alcohol.

I have to admit even though there are more irritating ingredients it’s just more comfortable on the face than my other recommended budget sheet mask line Dermal Korea Collagen Essence Mask Sheet.

First Impressions:

This mask has a runny, clear watery serum that absorbs very quickly and not tacky. It seemed to be thinner than the strawberry serum. The mask smells like alcohol mild herbal notes.

Like with others in the series, the mask starts off moist and then the cooling sensation sets in (probably from the eucalyptus). This mask has a very similar ingredients list to the strawberry mask.

Ingredients:
water, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, niacinamide, alcohol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea, biosacchardie gum-1, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, pearl extract (2,500 PPM), arginine, hydroxyethylcellulose, allantoin, acrylates/C-10-30 alkyl acrylate, crossspolymer, glycyrrhza glabra (licorice) root extract, copts japonica root extract, ginger root extract, camella snenss leaf extract, dehydroacetic acid, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, dipottasium glyceyrrhzate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, boswella serata gum, hydrogenated lechitin, betaglucan, geranium maculatum oil, citrus limon fruit extract, rosmarnus officinalis leaf oil, citrus paradsi peel oil, tea tree oil, phytosteryl/octyldodecyl laroyl glutamate, ceramide NP

Complexion Brightening

Like the strawberry mask, the pearl mask contains beneficial skin ingredients Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Urea, and Allantoin . The Niacinamide imparts brightening and anti-acne effects while the Urea and Allantoin are both additional humectants. Check out the Strawberry Air Therapy mask review for more information and references.

Not going to lie, I wasn’t expecting to find any evidence that pearl extract is beneficial to the skin. It turns out I’m only partially wrong. Pearl extract has been shown to promote collagen III, wound healing, and support the extracellular matrix, but take it with a grain of salt. Even though the study has no conflicts of interest the experiments weren’t performed on humans. It’s better than no evidence at all though.

Sources

Li, Yi-Chen, et al. “Pearl Extract Enhances the Migratory Ability of Fibroblasts in a Wound Healing Model.” Pharmaceutical Biology, vol. 51, no. 3, 2012, pp. 289–297., doi:10.3109/13880209.2012.721130.

Dai, Jian-Ping, et al. “Effects of Pearl Powder Extract and Its Fractions on Fibroblast Function Relevant to Wound Repair.” Taylor&Francis Online, Pharmaceutical Biology, 23 May 2008, http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.3109/13880200903046211.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links denoted by *.

Deal Alert: Paula’s Choice 15% off + 7.5% Cash Back with E-Bates

April 5, 2018April 6, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

My favorite thing about e-bates is that it stacks with other deals, in this case you’d only be getting back $1.66 but it really ads up (unintentional typo pun)!

New to e-bates? Get an additional $10 cash back for your first purchase.

The bad thing is you only get your cash back quarterly. This is my first ever Paula’s Choice so I’m pretty excited but I also can’t tell if this is a historically good deal. Have you gotten it for less? share your experiences in the comments.

Just looking at the ingredients I wouldn’t recommend if you have a sensitivity to glycols. It has some nice anti-aging and moisturizing ingredients too.

Ingredients:
Water (Aqua), Dipropylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid (beta hydroxy acid exfoliating agent), Pentylene Glycol (hydration), Butylene Glycol (hydration), Polysorbate 20 (texture-enhancing), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (skin-restorings), Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (skin-soothing), Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid (antioxidant), Oleanolic Acid (skin-soothing), Sodium Hyaluronate (hydration/skin replenishing), Allantoin (skin-soothing), Trehalose (hydration/skin replenishing), Panthenol (skin-conditioning agent), Glycerin (hydration/skin replenishing), PEG-60 Almond Glycerides (texture-enhancing), Sodium Metabisulfite (stabilizer), PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer (solvent), Methyl Gluceth-20, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane (hydration/texture-enhancing), Glycereth-26 (emollient texture-enhancing), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), Carbomer (gel-based texture-enhancing), Disodium EDTA (stabilizer), Caprylyl Glycol (skin-conditioning agent).

I needed a new BHA. The only one I’ve tried is COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid, despite mediocre reviews COSRX is a very popular, affordable Korean beauty brand. I purchased off Amazon and I still wonder if I received an authentic product. The packaging is so simple that it would be very easy to counterfeit, and it didn’t have any smell despite other reviews saying that they dislike the scent (if I’m nose-blind I’m still in denial). When I’m good with my skincare routine I use a BHA 3x a week, and the COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid was making my nose peel so that means it’s working right? Unfortunately I wasn’t getting visible results.

I stumbled on fanserviced-b’s blog post about BHAs and I thought I’d give it a shot. Lucky for me Paula’s Choice is running a promo so I thought I’d share. I have what some people call a “strawberry nose” haha. Once it’s in I’ll take some before and after photos using it on its own and with fiddysnail’s pore method.

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Strawberry Brightening and Revitalizing

April 4, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

Day 3 of the 15 part series covering the 0.2mm Air Therapy line.

Best for: Dry Skin

Data repeated from previous reviews will be in Italics. Today I realized that the 0.2 mm refers to the mask thickness. The mask fit is hands down the best thing about this mask, but the thinness might explain the feelings of dryness once the time is up. Or maybe it’s the alcohol. I have to admit even though there are more irritating ingredients it’s just more comfortable on the face than my other recommended budget sheet mask line Dermal Korea Collagen Essence Mask Sheet.

First Impressions:

This mask has a runny, clear gel serum that absorbs very quickly and not tacky. My first impression of the smell was “strawberry daiquiri” IMO it would be pleasant if the scent were not very faint. There is still a lingering medicinal / eucalyptus scent.

Like with others in the series, the mask starts off moist and then the cooling sensation sets in (probably from the eucalyptus). This mask seemed to retain moisture better than the Camellia mask reviewed yesterday, I think it’s because it has more humectants.

Ingredients:
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, MethylPropanediol, Niacinamide, Alcohol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Butylene Glycol, 1, 2-Hexanediol, Fragara Choloensis (Strawberry) Fruit Extract, Arginine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, , Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium Edta, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Boswellia Serrata Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Beta-Glucan, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Pinus Palustris Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ceramide Np

Brightening and Revitalizing

The additional Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Urea, and Allantoin sets this mask apart from the series so far. The Niacinamide imparts brightening and anti-acne effects while the Urea and Allantoin are both additional humectants.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) has been shown to have a slew of skin benefits including anti-acne, dark spots, and anti-aging. It’s a very common ingredient in skincare because of all the benefits, but I see a lot of people in skincare groups who can’t use it at all so spot test with another niacinamide product if you suspect you may have this issue.

Urea is a humectant and apparently hydroxyethyl urea is a moisturizing ingredient commonly used in oil-free moisturizers.

Allantoin is another common skincare ingredient that is “listed in the FDA over-the-counter monograph as a safe and effective skin protectant.”

Gotta have it now? Get them for ~$1.60 each on Amazon* usually masksheets.com has good prices but for some reason couldn’t find that in stock there today.

Sources

Bissett, Donald L., et al. “Niacinamide: A B Vitamin That Improves Aging Facial Skin Appearance.” Dermatologic Surgery, vol. 31, 2006, pp. 860–866., doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732.

Shalita, A R, et al. “Topical Nicotinamide Compared with Clindamycin Gel in the Treatment of Inflammatory Acne Vulgaris.” International Journal of Dermatology., U.S. National Library of Medicine, June 1995, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7657446.

Navarrete-Solís, Josefina, et al. Dermatology Research and Practice, Hindawi Publishing Corporation, 2011, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3142702/.

TANG, W., and B. BHUSHAN. “Friction, Adhesion and Durability and Influence of Humidity on Adhesion and Surface Charging of Skin and Various Skin Creams Using Atomic Force Microscopy.” Journal of Microscopy, Wiley/Blackwell (10.1111), 19 Jan. 2010, onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1365-2818.2009.03362.x.

Thornfeldt, Carl. “Cosmeceuticals Containing Herbs: Fact, Fiction, and Future.”Dermatologic Surgery, Wiley/Blackwell (10.1111), 21 Mar. 2006, onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31734.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links denoted by *.

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Air Therapy Camellia Lifting & Skin Radiance

April 4, 2018April 4, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

Day 2 of the 15 part series covering the 0.2mm Air Therapy line.

Best for: Aging skin

First Impressions:

The mask has a good amount of thick, gel serum similar to the kind found in hydrogel masks. The fragrance is very faint, slightly floral but with a stronger ginger / eucalyptus scent. The mask starts off moist and then the cooling sensation sets in (probably from the eucalyptus). And finally, if you leave it on too long you’ll know. I didn’t time myself today and I started getting that “moisture is being sucked away from my skin” feeling. Most other sheet masks you can tell they’re getting “not as moist” but this is my first experience with a mask that has felt drying when left on for less 45 mins. (I assume I left it on around 30, I don’t time myself strictly but I almost always do 20-30 mins)

Ingredients:
Water, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Xylitol, Alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, Carbomer, Arginine, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sucrose Palmitate, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Coptis Chinensis Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Ethylexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium Edta, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (100ppm), Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Oil, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Oil, Pinus Palustris Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavander) Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

While tracking down the cosdna link for this mask I came across another review (it’s always nice to have a second opinion, right?). Unlike that reviewer I felt the serum absorbs well and wasn’t particularly tacky when dry.

Lifting and Radiance

Camellia Japonica (Tsubaki) Oil has been shown to prevent Trans-epidermal Water Loss and to promote collagen production. Compared to the previously reviewed Argan mask, this mask also contains Adenosine, an anti-aging ingredient.

Licorice Root Extract has been shown to have a brightening effect on the skin, but it appears to be a common ingredient across this mask series. I didn’t see anything that stood out in regards to radiance in this mask flavor.

Jung, E., Lee, J., Baek, J., Jung, K., Lee, J., Huh, S., Kim, S., Koh, J., Park, D., 2007. Effect of
Camellia japonica oil on human type I procollagen production and skin barrier
function. J. Ethnopharmacol. 112, 127–131.

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Argan Nourishing & Moisturizing

April 3, 2018April 3, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

I was inspired to do this review due to Etude House’s 40% Off Mask Pack Event (ends 4/5/18). I got mine during a 60% off sales event (usually a one day only flash sale) which they do I would say once a month but they really went crazy with it in March. They have free shipping on orders over $60 USD which makes these one of THE most cost effective masks I’ve found ever.

EtudeHouse60off

First Impressions:

The mask has a lot of serum, and it’s the first mask I’ve used with a lotion-like serum (creamy, milky texture). The mask fits well (many masks are short on the forehead for me) but the eye holes are a little too close together. It faintly smells like alcohol but is not heavily fragranced. I would not recommend for sensitive skin. There is a faint chill / burning sensation and I can’t tell if it’s the alcohol content, the ginger, or the eucalyptus (why?)

Ingredients:

http://www.cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_9944353275.html

The whole 0.2mm Air Therapy series has alcohol high on the ingredient list. I decided to give them a chance anyway since I impulse-purchased. Recently I read that alcohol in skincare doesn’t necessarily mean that the product is drying, but I’ll follow up with how my face looks / feels tomorrow (or maybe not I’m a little too short on sleep to give an accurate gauge).

After the serum is completely patted in the skin does feel soft to the touch (like after just applying lotion). I personally did not have trouble with a long serum absorption time.

Rodan+Fields

March 5, 2018March 6, 2018 | Mermaid Magic

Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields, both dermatologists, own skincare line Rodan+Fields lauded as the “fastest-growing skin care brand” in the US. They have a few publications, linked below, and also founded the popular anti-acne brand, Proactiv.

With dermatologist backing, scientific research (other brands do this too!), and pre-assembled “kits” it’s easy to see how consumers would be attracted to this brand.

So what’s the problem?

Their prices are exorbitant. Rodan and Fields know the law and FDA too well to skirt around ingredients lists, but they still find ways to keep consumers in the dark. For example, their “AMPMD Micro-exfoliating Roller” looks a lot like a 0.25 mm micro-needling roller but nowhere on their website will you see it described as such. It took a little extra digging and confirmation from an Allure article (that gif is killing me on the inside, anyone familiar with micro-needling knows why – you’re not supposed to change directions while rolling like that). Lots of price fluctuation here because R+F sells this as a set with “Retinal” and cleaning tablets, but compare ~$40-$180 dollar “AMPMD Micro-exfoliating roller”* to under $15 FDA-Approved 0.25 mm titanium micro-needle roller* There’s no transparency about the needle length, the material nor the needle count of the AMPMD micro-exfoliating roller, plus they’re trying to sell you these pool cleaner + denture cleaner tablets (I’m only partially joking) for over $1.25 each in that package. Generally at home micro-needling isn’t recommended by most professionals, despite its benefits. There is a lot of room for error that can lead to infection or scarring. But among the home micro-needling crowd, it’s common knowledge that a good spritz of 70-90% rubbing alcohol before and after use is enough to sanitize (a 0.25 mm needle length or shorter dermaroller) and no fancy tablets are needed.

Not only are their prices exorbitant (I have PLENTY of examples see future articles for replacements to R+F products), to add insult to injury this billion dollar company only pays 2% of their consultants more than minimum wage and according to their own 2016 income disclosure statement 90.41% of their consultants average less than $200 a month.

Edit: I forgot to mention that R+F consultants been accused of using image manipulation to sell R+F products.

Dupes Megathread

K Rodan + K Fields Publications

Majewski, G, et al. “Hydrating the Skin with a Novel Interpenetrating Polymer Network.”Clinical, Experimental & Cosmetic Dermatology Journal, vol. 1, no. 1, ser. 100003, 14 Sept. 2017. 100003.
Efficacy of a twice-daily, 3-step, over-the-counter skincare regimen for the treatment of acne vulgaris Katie Rodan – Kathy Fields – Timothy JFalla – Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology – 2017
Skincare Bootcamp Katie Rodan – Kathy Fields – George Majewski – Timothy Falla – Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery – Global Open – 2016
Bioactive peptides: signaling the future

K Fields – T JFalla – K Rodan – L Bush – Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology – 2009

*Disclosure: This article contains Amazon-affiliate links please see disclaimer page for more details.

Mermaid Magic Beauty and Skincare

Beauty and Skincare Reviews, Dupes, and Deals

Skincare

05/23/18 Costco.com Perricone MD Closeout Pricing While Supplies Last

Perricone MD H2EE Firming Foam Mask $14.97

Perricone MD Cocoa Moisture Mask, 2 fl oz $24.97

Perricone MD Re:Firm Treatment, 1 fl oz $49.97

Perricone MD Neuropeptide Facial Conformer, 2 fl oz $199.97

Review: 2018 Sephora Sun Safety Kit Part 1

0.24 oz/7 mL Clinique Pep-Start Moisturizer SPF 20 – $29.50 from clinique.com*

1.01 oz/30 mL AMOREPACIFIC Resort Collection Sun Protection Mist – $75 for 200 mL or $32 for 80 mL

0.17 oz/5 mL Murad Invisiblur™ Perfecting Shield SPF 30 PA+++ – $65 at Murad.com*

0.25 oz/7 mL philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Cream SPF 30 – $28 at philosophy.com

0.5 oz/15 mL Peter Thomas Roth Max Sheer All Day Moisture Defense Lotion SPF 30 – $42 at peterthomasroth.com*

-Bonus- 0.25 oz/7.5 mL First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 – $28 on FAB.com

Recommended Reading / Watching:

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Snail Smoothing & Firming

First Impressions:

Smoothening and Firming

Sources

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Pearl Bright Complexion

First Impressions:

Complexion Brightening

Sources

Deal Alert: Paula’s Choice 15% off + 7.5% Cash Back with E-Bates

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Strawberry Brightening and Revitalizing

First Impressions:

Brightening and Revitalizing

Sources

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Air Therapy Camellia Lifting & Skin Radiance

First Impressions:

Lifting and Radiance

Review: Etude House 0.2mm Therapy Air Mask Argan Nourishing & Moisturizing

First Impressions:

Ingredients:

Rodan+Fields